Home Affordability Calculator
Estimate the home price you can afford from your income, debts and down payment.
Written by Rahman · Last reviewed
Quick answer
Lenders size affordability with two ratios: housing costs up to 28% of gross monthly income, and total debt payments up to 36%. Your maximum housing payment is the lower of the two, and the price it supports depends on the rate, term and down payment. But qualifying for a figure and living comfortably on what's left are two different questions.
- Principal & interest1,594.65 (75.9%)
- Property tax267.93 (12.8%)
- Home insurance121.79 (5.8%)
- PMI115.63 (5.5%)
- Monthly PITI2,100.00
Based on the 28/36 rule, which caps housing at 28% of gross monthly income and all debt at 36%. The cap covers the whole payment — principal, interest, taxes and insurance — so those are solved together rather than leaving escrow out. PMI is included because the down payment is under 20% of the price; clearing that threshold removes it. Lenders also weigh credit score, HOA dues and reserves, so treat this as a starting estimate rather than a pre-approval.
Results are estimates for general guidance and are not financial, tax or legal advice. Except where a calculator names a currency, figures carry no currency of their own: put in pounds and you get pounds back, put in rupees and you get rupees. Figures depend on the assumptions you enter and on rates that change over time. Check current rates and speak to a qualified adviser before acting on them.
About the Home Affordability Calculator
Before house-hunting, it helps to know a realistic price range. Lenders assess affordability mainly through your income, existing debts and the size of your down payment.
This calculator applies the widely used 28/36 rule (housing costs up to about 28% of gross income, and total debt payments up to about 36%) to estimate the home price you could comfortably afford.
Max housing payment = lesser of (28% of monthly income) and (36% of monthly income − existing debts).
That payment is converted into a loan amount, then the down payment is added to estimate an affordable home price.
Two ratios, and the tighter one wins
Lenders apply two debt-to-income tests, not one, and an application has to satisfy both. The front-end ratio looks at housing costs alone, commonly capped around 28% of gross monthly income. The back-end ratio looks at housing plus every other monthly debt obligation, and is commonly capped around 36%, with 43% often treated as an outer limit for qualified mortgages.
On a $75,000 salary, gross monthly income is $6,250. The 28% front-end test allows about $1,750 a month for housing. The 36% back-end test allows $2,250 for all debt combined, so with $700 a month of car and student loan payments, only $1,550 remains for housing. Here the back-end test is the one that limits you, and it takes $200 a month off what you could borrow on the housing test alone.
- Paying down or clearing an instalment loan before you apply can raise what you can borrow by more than adding the same amount to your down payment.
- The housing figure is the full PITI payment (principal, interest, taxes and insurance) plus HOA fees where they apply, not just principal and interest.
- Credit card balances count at their minimum payment, so a large balance with a small minimum uses up less of the ratio than an instalment loan of the same size.
Approval is a lending limit, not a budget
These ratios are lending rules designed to predict whether you'll repay, and they're worked out on gross income: before income tax, before payroll deductions, before retirement contributions. But nobody pays a mortgage out of gross income.
The difference is big. If you're approved at the top of a 36% back-end ratio, you're committing well over a third of your pre-tax income, which is a much larger share of what actually reaches your bank account. Costs that fall outside the ratio entirely (childcare, healthcare, commuting, retirement saving, maintenance on the property itself) come out of what is left.
- Maintenance is commonly estimated at 1% of the property value a year, and it doesn't appear in any affordability test.
- Borrowing the maximum leaves you no room to cope with a rate rise at renewal, a spell of lower income or a big repair.
- Working backwards from a monthly payment you're comfortable with gives you a more useful number than working forwards from the most a lender will approve.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the 28/36 rule?
⌄
It is a common lending guideline: spend no more than 28% of gross monthly income on housing, and no more than 36% on all debt payments combined.
Why does this differ from what a lender offers?
⌄
Lenders also weigh your credit score, employment history, property taxes and insurance. Treat this as a planning estimate, not a pre-approval.
How does paying down debt help?
⌄
Lower existing debt payments free up room under the 36% limit, which increases the housing payment (and therefore the home price) you can afford.
Should I borrow the maximum I qualify for?
⌄
Not necessarily. Buying below your limit leaves a buffer for maintenance, emergencies and other goals, and reduces financial stress.
Sources
- CFPB — Explore loan choices — US regulator on the three choices that define a mortgage: loan type (conventional, FHA, VA, USDA), loan term, and fixed versus adjustable rate.